We decided we were through with the Black Hills and resolved to see Devil’s Tower National Monument.
It wasn’t on our list, but my dad recommended it so emphatically that we changed our minds and went with his advice.
I’ve rarely regretted that, and this time was no exception.
The drive was only a few hours and it took us through parts of the Hills that we hadn’t seen before.
The hills gave way to the plains and finally the stubs of low lying hills and mountains
and then, coming around a corner, we saw the Tower.
We rolled into the park and hit the campground first thing – it was
packed. We went through the first loop – nothing.
We went through the second loop, and saw one site sandwiched between two large groups.
We almost grabbed it, but I drove on, telling Larisa that I wanted to see the rest of the loop.
And there it was, one campsite left at the edge of the campground, right next to the river, and with a completely open view of the Tower.
It’s the campsite we’d have picked if the place had been empty, so we reasoned they’d been saving it for us.
In reality, the grill had tape on it indicating it couldn’t be used, so people probably skipped it in favor of other sites.
Fine with us, we’ve got a stove baby!
We set up camp and went up to the visitor’s center, which was closing as we got there.
A quick tour netted us the history of the place, and we decided to do a 1.3 mile loop trail around the Tower as the sun was setting.
We started off – apparently the wrong way, because what little traffic came past was moving in the opposite direction.
I snapped a couple of photos of the tower and Larisa, but I couldn’t get into the photography mood.
When Larisa paused about halfway around the loop for pictures I decided to just sit and look at the tower.
It is magnificent.
The Native American lore surrounding the Devil’s Tower is an interesting story in itself.
The legend goes that a young woman got her bear medicine and went insane, killing everyone in her village except her little sister.
Her brothers, who had been out hunting returned to the village and saved the sister.
As they ran the siblings spoke to a buffalo and a rock.
The buffalo agreed to hold off the bear, and the rock told them to stand on it, and it began to grow to the sky.
The clefts in the Tower, formed by columns of stone, are the marks left by the mad bear’s claws, and the tower grew high enough to put the girls into the sky, where they became stars – the constellation known as Pleiades.
The five stars chasing it represent the bear, still chasing her siblings across the sky.
And this is why the Tower is known as Bear Lodge by the six known Native American tribes of the region.
The name Devil’s Tower comes from an American explorer in the hills, Col. Dodge, who claimed that one tribe, unnamed, called it “Bad God’s Dwelling”, so he called it Devil’s Tower.
I kinda like the first story better.
As I watched the light fade and the sky going blue the forest became quiet and I could hear the blood pounding in my veins as if it were pulsating to some frequency in the land itself.
Call this feature of nature what you will, it is electric to behold at sunset. I found myself thinking that this place had been home to humans for ten thousand years.
I wondered how many sets of eyes had looked upon it from where I was sitting, how many people felt the land buzzing with the energy of nature, how many had sat there, awestruck and dreaming, how many had sent prayers up the sides and into the skies, and to how many gods had they prayed?
I’ll never know, but I do know that I was filled with reverence and wonder at the sight, and I will never forget it.
We moved on a little later, Larisa coming over to gently jog my arm.
She’d seen me sitting there in the trance and had given me space, but it was getting dark, and for now it was time to head back.
Thanks for the tip dad!